Joe Trivelli’s savoury and sweet cold weather comfort food

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Deeply warming dishes, from Italian bubble and squeak to a light and luscious apple pie

My grandmother used to fry eggs for me as a boy when she was on visits from southern Italy during winter months – always with a piece of cheese and some chilli that she brought in her suitcase. I have taken her lead here using them on a golden cabbage pancake that I know she’d enjoy. Although I am sure that she would add some spicy sausage that would be also lurking around the bottom of her case.

In the cold, I need comforting and these dishes will do this with warming ginger and a touch of acidity. When I asked my chef colleagues what they were looking forward to this autumn, the answer came back: “Eating all sorts of orange food while wearing a jumper.” The vongole surrounded by pumpkin pillars with fregola soaking everything up fits the bill. And if by the end of this you’re not feeling suitably cosy there is apple pie.

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